Sumo is a type of wrestling and is deeply connected with the religion and culture of Japan. A national sport, an entertainment enjoyed by the masses, and a traditional ritual, it is an experience that allows you to indulge in genuine tradition.
There are two main ways to watch sumo in person. One is to buy tickets to a sumo tournament, which is held every odd month in a different city. The other way is to visit a sumo stable to see their morning practice, which is a one of a kind experience that lets you witness the action up close.
A sumo stable, led by a mentor known as an oyakata, is where sumo wrestlers live and train. There are currently 42 official sumo stables in Japan (mostly residing in Ryogoku Ward of Tokyo, where the national sumo stadium is), and most of them open up their morning practice, or asageiko, to the public, where anyone interested is able to come and watch.
Morning practice usually starts around 7am with the training of the youngest sumo wrestlers. Then the higher ranked sumo wrestlers join, and butsukari geiko (head-to-head training) starts, where they train their pushing and shoving techniques. This training is one of the highlights of morning practice, as the sumo wrestlers train as if it were a real match. When I went to see morning practice for the first time, I was lucky enough to have first row seats, which meant I was sitting right by the edge of the dohyo or the wrestling ring. I was so near that I would be able to touch the wrestlers if I reached out my hand. There was actually a moment where one of the sumo wrestlers was shoved so hard that he flew out of the dohyo and into us! I was also able to see how red their body gets when they get hit or shoved, which is probably something you won’t be able to notice during a sumo tournament as you’re too far away.
After about an hour or so into the butsukari geiko, morning practice ends. At the stable I visited, they offered a brief photo session at the end, which added to the specialness!
When visiting a stable for their morning practice, there are several precautions you must know before visiting.
Because it is a traditional sport that follows old rituals, visitors need to be extra careful when participating. I wouldn’t chew gum or candy during the practice, as locals find it impolite.
Beware that morning practice is not open to the public during and after tournaments (during the tournament they want to focus, and after it they want some rest :)), but it is open to the public, even when they are touring other cities, so you may have the chance to see their practice outside of their hometown.
In order to secure your spot, I recommend checking the sumo stables’ website, as some take reservations. We at WaWo Japan Travel are able to arrange seats as well, so if interested, send us an inquiry!
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Saori Futsukaichi
Travel Consultant at WaWo Japan Travel