Niigata is a region where the past and future are deeply intertwined, and this trip gave me a new appreciation for the legacy we leave behind. In places like Tsubame-Sanjo and Gyokusendo, it’s clear that what truly endures beyond our time are the things we create and the people who carry on our work. Whether it’s crafting a copper keepsake with my own hands or watching artisans refine techniques passed down for generations, every experience was a reminder of how our efforts ripple through time.
For many travelers exploring new countries, pricing of those special souvenirs can make or break the bank. However, artisanal products in Japan often stand out as treasures, testament to years of experience and the extraordinary skill of craftsmen. Suwada is one such brand that carries a strong image of uncompromising quality. So on our third day here, we visited the renowned Suwada Open Factory.
The building itself wasn’t particularly imposing, but as we entered, we were immediately greeted by two large iron sculptures, acting as bodyguards next to a throne-like chair. Naturally, we couldn’t resist embracing our inner “Game of Thrones” fans and taking a seat on the ‘throne’.
After this playful start, we moved on to explore the factory. Descending the spiraling staircase, we arrived at the factory floor, enclosed by glass walls. It was fascinating to peer through the glass and observe the staff meticulously crafting each item. One worker, in particular, caught my attention, and I found myself mesmerized for a solid five minutes.
She would carefully file down the edge of a pair of titanium-tipped pliers, then pick up a powerful magnifying glass to inspect her work under the light. Again and again, she repeated the process, searching for even the tiniest imperfections. Watching her dedication and precision, I began to understand why Suwada products are so highly regarded. The attention to detail and commitment to quality was clear, and it changed the way I looked at items in the store on the floor above.
Our next stop is the Tsubame City Industrial Materials Museum.
This museum showcases the region’s rich legacy as a hub for industrial innovation and traditional craftsmanship. One of its most captivating features is its spotlight on local companies that have earned international recognition.
Today, however, we visited for a different reason, an interactive workshop where we made our own tsuiki dōki hand-hammered copperware. There’s no better souvenir than one you create yourself!
Our instructor for the class was Mr. Okamoto. After a brief introduction to the deep history of tsuiki dōki, we were handed a copper and steel cup and a hammer. This is where the fun began. Following the iconic style of this traditional craft, we hammered the cups to create unique riveted shapes and patterns.
It was surprising how physically demanding it turned out to be. The constant hammering wasn’t just an arm workout—the shock reverberating from the hammer left a tingling fatigue in the forearms. Despite the effort, it was a blast watching everyone focused and laughing as they worked away.
Now, every time I see my cup (or those of my colleagues) in the office, I’m reminded of my time here and the unexpected challenge that made this experience unforgettable.
Our next destination is Gyokusendo, a place rich in Niigata’s history and heritage. Currently managed by the 7th-generation head, this workshop embodies a tradition refined, compounded and perfected over centuries.
The current owner shared with us his deep concern about the decline in skilled craftsmen due to technological advancements in recent times. He is passionately committed to preserving these time-honored techniques and passing them down to future generations.
Gyokusendo’s products are renowned for their exceptional quality, and our factory tour offered an eye-opening glimpse into how traditional techniques and modern tools have shaped their craft.
I was very moved by the owner’s dedication to training and inspiring young artisans. Many of the staff we observed were quite young, and Yamada-san explained that one of his methods to increase the number of artisans was by encouraging them by allowing them to work on their own projects during off-hours and weekends in the workshop. This not only hones their skills but also keeps them motivated because they are free to sell any piece that they themselves created. One artisan we met shared how their dream of creating sculptural works began in junior high school, and seeing their passion was truly inspiring.
I was also impressed by their simple yet brilliant workstations. Each smith worked seated, with a protruding rod attached to their seat, which allowed them to position their piece securely while hammering it into shape. Sitting on wooden benches helped reduce vibrations, and freed up both of their arms, making their work more efficient and comfortable.
Another even more fascinating aspect was their innovative method for color toning the metal. Using their own chemical solution, they oxidized the material to achieve stunning hues. What stood out to me was the use of barrels and containers—some decades old—marked with handwritten dates that guided the artisans in predicting the exact colors of each batch.
The designs we saw were truly breathtaking, a testament to the artisans’ skill and the enduring legacy of Gyokusendo.
If making your way to Niigata proves to be a challenge and you are interested in some of their creations, feel free to visit their new branch in Ginza, Tokyo!
If you are interested in visiting Tsubame Sanjo and the many amazing places we visited please use the links below to find out more!
Tsubame Sanjo Industrial Museum:
https://tim.securesite.jp/top_en.html
Gyokusendo:
https://www.gyokusendo.com/en/openfactory
Suwada Open Factory:
https://www.suwada.co.jp/en/about_en/factory
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All images were obtained from WaWo Japan Travel
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Ben Bramhill
Travel Consultant at WaWo Japan Travel
