Northern Shimane – Japan’s Ancient Refuge for the Divine 

Izumo Region

Refuge of the Divine

Shimane is the northern neighboring prefecture of Hiroshima. Here you can find Izumo and its surrounding area, where nature and spirituality blend harmoniously. Surrounded by serene coastlines, forests, and sacred mountains, it’s no wonder that it is considered a divine refuge. Believed to be a gathering place for Shinto deities, this region offers visitors a unique connection to Japan’s mythology.

Izumo Taisha Grand Shrine

Shrine for Relationships and Fortune

Our first stop is at the heart of Izumo’s spiritual landscape, Izumo Taisha Grand Shrine, one of Japan’s oldest and most revered Shinto shrines. Dedicated to Okuninushi-no-Mikoto, the god of relationships, marriage, good fortune, and in Shinto mythology he is regarded as the ‘creator of Japan’. 

Your journey to the shrine starts by walking through an enormous Torii gate. As you stroll down the pathway with tall encompassing Japanese pine trees, it feels as though you are being transported back in time, as one of the many pilgrims to this temple.
In front of the ‘Kagura-den’, a performance hall, hangs Japan’s largest shimenawa. A shimenawa is a sacred straw rope, and this one is 13.5 meters long and around 5 tons!

The shrine is an important place for those seeking prosperity in their personal connections. People from all over Japan visit the shrine to pray for relationship success, making it a popular spot for wedding ceremonies and blessings. I felt very fortunate to watch a wedding ceremony taking place during my visit there. 

Shinto shrines around Japan have their own specific way to pray. Two bows, two claps and one bow. However, this shrine’s unique sequence is to bow twice, clap four times and finally bow once more.

Okuninushi-no-Mikoto’s folklore stories are captured by statues referencing these moments. Inside the grounds you can also find many statues of rabbits, because the enshrined Okuninushi-no-Mikoto is said to have saved a hare from a terrible fate according to the story ‘The Hare of Inaba’. 
I found it cute and endearing to see some statues out in the open but also to notice smaller almost hidden sculptures covered by shade and trees. When you visit Izumo Taisha make sure to keep one eye out for these little tricksters!

The main street leading to the shrine is lined with stores offering local goods and souvenirs. Visitors can shop for souvenirs, many of which are themed around love and good fortune. I went around hunting for a unique piece to add to my collection of mementos. The hustle and bustle of small restaurants and cafés that serve delicious local dishes, including the famous Izumo soba, further add to the ambiance.
I highly suggest you give the area a chance!

Matsue Castle

Japan’s Black Keep

For those with a passion for history, Matsue Castle is a must see destination. Built in 1611 by the feudal lord Horio Yoshiharu, this remarkable fortress is one of the few remaining original castles in Japan, providing a rare and tangible connection to the country’s feudal era. The castle’s dark wooden facade earned it the nickname “The Black Castle”.

As I entered the grounds, it rose with stoic dignity from the hilltop between massive trees scraping the sky, overlooking the waters of Lake Shinji and the surrounding city of Matsue below.

What sets Matsue Castle apart is its authenticity. Unlike so many other castles that were lost to the flames of the Meiji Restoration or the upheavals of World War II, Matsue Castle has remained largely untouched. It feels like a portal to the Edo period. You are required to take off your shoes before you enter and as you step inside, the air is cooler, carrying a sense of the centuries that have passed since those floors were first laid. Almost all of the castle retains its original wood and stones, so the creaking of each board and wooden beam beneath your feet holds a story from a different era. 

It’s easy to imagine the residents and samurai in the castle, looking out from the same vantage point, scanning the horizon. Looking through the small slits in the windows, I could envision how they defended the keep from assault.  The castle stands tall at 6 stories and the aged timber stairs were made intentionally narrow and extremely steep. It would be hard for invaders to ascend the castle but this design also made it so that visitors need to tread carefully too.

A National Treasure

In 2015, Matsue Castle was honored as one of Japan’s five National Treasure castles. It is a title that reflects its immense cultural, historical, and architectural significance. Joining the ranks of renowned castles like Himeji, Inuyama, Matsumoto, and Hikone. Matsue Castle stands as a testament to Japan’s feudal architecture, preserved through the centuries. It’s not just a visual spectacle but a symbol of exceptional preservation, embodying  the traditional craftsmanship and the strategic military importance it once held.

What makes this recognition so meaningful is how well the castle has withstood the tests of time. As you wander through its interior, you’ll find original wooden beams and floors from the early 17th century, untouched by modern renovations. Each detail offers a window into its past. Positioned as a stronghold with a commanding view over the region, the castle once served as both a defensive structure and a representation of the Matsue domain’s power and influence.

Encompassing Natural Beauty and Scenic Views

Matsue Castle is not just a historical monument, it is also surrounded by breathtaking natural beauty. Jozan Park encircles the castle. It is easy to imagine how each season changes the atmosphere of the castle. The new life of spring turns it into a vibrant spot, when the cherry blossoms are in full bloom. During late autumn when the leaves change into their burning shades of yellow, orange and red are contrasted by the black and white of the castle. 

We ascended the steep stairs to the top of the keep, and were greeted by a crisp brush of wind. The top of the castle has a 360 degree viewing section allowing us to take in the panoramic views. I could see everything, from Lake Shinji stretching into the horizon, the city of Matsue, and the surrounding mountains. As I slowly tried to take it all in I felt as though I was in a castle in the sky. At almost the same altitude in eye-line, was a hawk hunting for prey just below. I couldn’t help but marvel at its agility. 

Matsue Castle’s unique blend of historical importance, architectural integrity, and scenic surroundings makes it an essential stop for anyone exploring Shimane’s cultural heritage.

<Author>

Ben Bramhill

Travel Consultant at WaWo Japan Travel