The rugged landscapes of Shimane Prefecture hold stories of industry and craftsmanship that have shaped Japan’s cultural and economic history. From the hidden depths of the Iwami Ginzan Silver Mine to the forge of the Tatara steelsmiths, Shimane offers a unique journey into Japan’s industrial trade past – a past that spans from the trade routes of precious silver to the legendary steel that gave rise to the samurai’s most revered weapon.
There are many aspects and traditions from sword creation that have been lost to time. However, Izumo has long been known for its craftsmanship, especially the art of Tatara steelmaking. It’s a tradition that has transcended generations, preserving the knowledge and techniques of Japan’s legendary weapon makers.
This traditional method, refined over centuries, is responsible for producing the incredible tamahagane steel. High-quality metal is essential to make a sword, and so tamahagane steel is a material treasured by master swordsmiths for crafting Japan’s famous katana swords.
The creation of tamahagane is a delicate balance between science and art, and once it’s complete, the steel is handed over to skilled swordsmiths who transform it into the curved, deadly beauty of the samurai blades.
My first leg of the journey started with a visit to Sugaya Tatara Yamauchi, the last original Tatara steelmaking home. For those intrigued by the craftsmanship behind the samurai’s blade, it offers a step into the world of Japan’s master forgers.
As I walked towards the first dwelling emerging along a winding stream, I was immediately struck by an ethereal sweet aroma in the air. A kinmokusei tree, towering over the buildings in the center, started the story. This giant tree was once thought to be resting place of a Japanese deity associated with fire and craftmanship named Kanayago. Artisans and craftsman would often pray to Kanayago to aid them in their endeavours.
I continued down the pathway and stepped into the first house. Preserved in its original form, I could easily picture the workers and family members who once used these buildings.
A local staff member led us out of the house and back up the pathway, where I was once again enveloped by the heavenly sweet aroma of the kinmokusei tree. In front of me stood a large building with wide open doors. Although nearly 3-stories tall, there were no upper floors. This was where the furnaces and deposit bays lay, and where the magic happened.
The preserved site provided an opportunity to examine the clay furnaces and traditional tools that once shaped the steel that empowered samurai. In the center of the room stood two of these traditional Tatara furnaces. Our guide explained how these would be built, destroyed and rebuilt for every batch of metal. A lengthy process that involved many people, further adding to reverence of all the effort it took to create the legendary steel.
Our guide concluded her explanation of the intricacies of the furnaces, how they used the waterways to create sluices and water-powered blowers to heat the furnace. Then with a gesture over my shoulder, she pointed out the small structure behind us. For those familiar with Studio Ghibli’s works, this location is believed to have inspired a scene in Princess Mononoke.
The last building we explored housed a massive, towering anvil. Weighing several tons, it was used to crush, split, and shatter large deposits of ore into usable sizes for the furnace, showcasing the sheer power required in this traditional steelmaking process.
Tracing back the flow of time and trade from the historic forges of Izumo to the legendary deep silver mines of Iwami Ginzan, we ventured further south. Although the drive was a little over one hour, the views of boundless all-encompassing nature added to the adventure. Just as the Tatara steelmakers perfected their craft in the shadow of Mount Sanbe, the miners of Iwami Ginzan delved deep into the earth to extract the silver that would turn Japan into a trading powerhouse.
While the Tatara steelsmiths were renowned for their expertise in creating forging weapons of exceptional quality, the Iwami Ginzan mines were producing wealth on a global scale, driving trade and Japan’s domestic shaping economies. Both places share a common theme of transforming raw materials into coveted treasures.
Reaching the tunnel entrance of the Ginzan Mines can be done in three ways: on foot, by renting a golf cart, or by using an bicycle. We opted for the unique electric-powered assistance bicycles. Although I have been riding bikes since childhood and spent countless hours on my BMX, the thrill of zipping along on an electric bike was a refreshing experience. From the moment we pedaled off, we were gliding up hills effortlessly. I highly recommend everyone try it and add another layer to your adventure at this UNESCO World Heritage Site.
As we journeyed up, we stopped at several key points where our guide shared the historical significance of various buildings. One notable stop was the original office of the mine’s foreman. During the mine’s operational years, only samurai and noblemen were allowed to display their family crests. However, miners and prominent families associated with the mines were granted special permission to do so as well, reflecting the mines’ vital role in trade and commerce.
The entrance to the tunnel remains largely undisturbed, and our guide pointed out a simple yet intriguing plant at the base of a tree, named hebino-negoza (Asian common ladyfern), which translates to “snakes nest.” This unique plant has been known for centuries to thrive near good mining sites. To the right of the entrance, nestled into the rock face, was a statue adorned with candles. Miners would often say a silent prayer before entering.
Although I am not tall, the mines felt narrow and short. In some spots, I had to hunch over, while in others, I could stand up straight. This design is largely due to the fact that many of the miners were very young, starting their work at just 15 years old. Despite the job being held in high regard, it came with a very low life expectancy. If a miner managed to reach the age of 30, the village would hold a special celebration in their honor.
The miners relied on turban shells filled with wax as their only source of light. The experience was incredibly tight and challenging, as the shell candles provided little illumination. So they often had to place the flame dangerously close to their faces while it was also emitting poisonous fumes. Dust and fragments frequently fell into their eyes, leading to injuries or even blindness. This line of work was exceptionally difficult, offering good pay but at the significant cost of their lifespan.
Inside the mine, we could see some of the shafts they worked on, learning how miners sometimes had to lie in very cramped, uncomfortable positions for hours to extract the silver.
At one point in time, the mine yielded about one-third of all the silver extracted worldwide, making the Iwami Ginzan mine extremely coveted and necessitating protection. The silver ore was loaded onto ships for trade, which also fostered strong cultural exchanges within the region.
As we made our way from the mine into Omori Town, I was immediately appreciative of how the community has preserved its original buildings. Walking through the streets felt like the town was locked in time, with even the vending machines having custom made external designs to help hide the machines and maintain the atmosphere. Each corner revealed a piece of history, with a different historical building inviting us to explore further.
Just a short walk into the town, we discovered a delightful bakery and ice cream shop that added a sweet touch to our afternoon. With a variety of flavors, including unique local options, it was hard to choose just one. So I conquered my inhibitions and got two. Continuing our walk outside while savoring my treats, I truly felt the town’s serene charm.
Omori Town is host to a plethora of hidden spots, tucked inside the timely facade of its buildings. Another fascinating location was a cafe workspace. The cafe was a juxtaposition of traditional and contemporary modern, where the towers of recommended authors were surrounded by calming tatami, creating a unique blend of chaotic harmony.
At the bottom end of Omori Town lies a unique shrine featuring a temple with a roof painted with dragons. While dragons often symbolize fire and destruction in Western culture, here they are associated with water, serving as guardians to protect the shrine from fire and damage.
The temple also had another unique feature. I was instructed to kneel in the center of the temple and clap. Even though the room is not enclosed, thanks to the temple’s design that enhances acoustics, a distinct echo resonated back at me.
From the deep tunnels of the Iwami Ginzan Silver Mine to the fiery furnaces of the Tatara steelsmiths, exploring Shimane is like stepping into the pages of a living history book. Each site holds the echoes of the past, stories of industrious craftsmen, and glimpses into the world that once was. Whether you’re following the path of a samurai’s sword or tracing the veins of silver that shaped an era, Shimane invites you to slow down, connect with Japan’s heritage, and appreciate the art of true craftsmanship.
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All images not owned by WaWo Japan Travel were obtained from the following sources:
★ Shimane Tourism Association
[https://www.kankou-shimane.com/destination/20309]
<Author>
Ben Bramhill
Travel Consultant at WaWo Japan Travel
